Thursday we started the day by visiting Glastonbury and the historical Abby grounds. The people of this little village believe Glastonbury to be the most spiritual place in the world. Hm. I would agree that it was what we call a “thin” place: a place where the divide between what is corporal and what is spiritual seems to thin a bit. This felt especially true for David, but that is his story to tell. The Abby grounds are where, according to the abby, King Arthur’s remains were found and reburied for a long time. There were also some lovely gardeny areas on the grounds which were beautiful to see.
Afterwards we went to Plymouth and went on a short “cruise” around the bay from whence Sir Francis Drake and later the Mayflower set forth. I think that would have been more interesting if it hadn’t been pouring rain and so windy that the places the cruise director pointed out we were pretty much unable to see…
In the evening we were in Devon and in Dartmoor in particular where we had the wonderful gift of hearing a story teller talk about Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s inspiration for The Hound of the Baskervilles. We also heard about Pixies and witches and it was enrapturing just to hear this fantastic story teller weave her tales, sharing with us local legends.
Friday then we spent along the coast of Cornwall. We visited Looe and had a wonderful walk along the beach, then went on to Penzance (yes, as in the pirates of…) and finally to St. Ives where David and I found a number of beautiful garden areas as well as walked along another beach.
Today is Saturday and I’m having some tummy troubles: too much rich food. Too much food, period. My body has had enough. Nonetheless I (probably foolishly) set off to go where we are led. We started the morning by going to Tintagel Castle where, supposedly, King Arthur was conceived…
The hilly and aerobic walk greatly improved my mood. After that we went to Padstow… Also beautiful. David and I, ever on the hunt for gardens, only briefly spent time on the wharf. The rest of the time we found paths and discovered memorials, wildernesses, and incredible views.
Then we went to Port Isaac, where Doc Martin was based and filmed.
My learning about my travel style deepens. On this tour, we have been taken to specific places with specific things in mind for us to see, often having to do with shopping and visiting city-like places. But my interests are off the beaten path. So when given free time, we find our way out from where the rest of our tour is roaming. It really works for me as I’m able to see what I came here to see: the wilds, the gardens. I’m also finding that many of the best “gardens” are in people’s small yards, or in the country landscapes of England. The flowers that naturally grow here (many valerians, fox gloves, Queen Anne’s Lace, Elderflower, daisies, even mustard) are so beautiful! They line the pathways and roads, creating a natural beauty we can only begin to duplicate in our yards. I’m not saying the tour is un-valuable. We learn a lot of history from the tour guide, and we go to places that were not necessarily on my radar at all: the talk with the forager was amazing, as was listening to the story-teller. Not sure we could have found either of those on our own. But my favorite parts of this England/Wales part of my sabbatical have been the time I’ve had with David, walking at our own pace and in our own space: seeing what is often known only to the locals or others who are willing to venture out a little farther. As the tour continues we are opting out of more of the dinner “optional events” to do our own thing. The meals that these options provide are, as I said above, too rich and too big for me anyway. I’d rather avoid the expensive overeating (for me: no judgment on others’ choices) and see what small mom and pop shops, cafes and restaurants are selling to those who live here.
The other advantages for me of these tours: first, I don’t have to drive, so I’m free to just look around at the scenery. Secondly, they give a taste and inform us about what we might want to dig into more deeply if given the chance to come back someday. I know I want to return to that history museum in Cardiff, for example. I would like to explore more fully the national parks here for their beauty and connections to nature. We didn’t really see the Cotswold other than driving through, and I would love to have a chance to really visit some of those small house gardens which I’ve heard are amazing.
All in all, I’m deeply aware of the gifts of this time. I’m also tired, and I find myself missing the people who are normally such an important part of my daily life: my kids, my congregation, my lectionary group, my extended family, my friends…All of you are often in my thoughts and I hope you are all well. I am halfway through my sabbatical as of today, which has both flown by, and at the same time drags on. Time is weird that way. I continue to look forward to the lessons of tomorrow.
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